Briah Artemis<\/a> managed to spark a conversation about festival politics, pop culture and the power of fashion to make a statement, all with a fun sense of humor and taste.<\/p>\nThe Brat<\/em> star hosted an A-list after party at the Guess Jeans luxury compound for the brand’s annual desert takeover for Coachella, as it debuted a new creative partnership with Japanese graphic artist, Verdy. Throughout the weekend, Guess Jeans hosted its community of artists, tastemakers and global brand ambassadors, from the Charli xcx afters to Don Toliver closing out the weekend with a takeover.<\/p>\nOne thing\u2019s for sure: Briah Artemis isn\u2019t just dressing the moment \u2014 she\u2019s helping define it. As for whether Charli should have been a headliner? Let the dress, and the screams from the crowd, answer that one. Keep your eyes on Briah! This is just the first stitch in what\u2019s bound to be a wildly influential thread.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Below, PAPER<\/em> caught up with the designer to talk viral design, working with Charli xcx and what it\u2019s like to watch your creation become a meme and a movement.<\/p>\n<\/h3>\n <\/p>\n
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First things first: What was your reaction when you saw Charli xcx wearing your dress at Coachella?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/span>I was so excited. She\u2019s been the one person I\u2019ve been wanting to dress. I think she really speaks to the Briah Artemis identity of not giving a shit and looking good while doing it. What made it even better was that it was at Coachella. Being from LA, Coachella is basically a national holiday.<\/p>\n<\/span>What inspired the phrase \u201cShould Have Been A Headliner\u201d?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/span>Chris Horan, Charli\u2019s stylist, actually came up with that. And I mean, they weren\u2019t wrong<\/p>\n<\/span>Can you walk us through the design process of the dress, from sketch to party?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/span>First, I sent them a picture of the sash dress. They came up with the slogan. I sketched out a few options, and we both agreed it had to be a mini and something she could party in. I then quickly made the first draft with some left over jersey I had in my studio. I sent it in for approval \u2014 got the fabric rush printed in a day, while working all day styling. I made the dress in two days and overnighted it on Wednesday.<\/p>\n<\/h3>\n <\/p>\n
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How did the collaboration come about? Did she reach out to you directly?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong>Chris\u2019 team reached out to me directly. Which I\u2019m a huge fan of Charli and the team, so I was super excited<\/p>\nWas there a specific moment during Coachella when you realized the dress had gone viral?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong>I actually didn\u2019t really know because I don\u2019t have Twitter, but my friends started texting me being like, \u201cIs this your dress? It\u2019s all over my feed.”<\/p>\nWhat does it mean to you to create fashion that speaks so loudly, literally and culturally?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong>That\u2019s actually what Briah Artemis is all about. I want people to have an opinion about my pieces, whether they\u2019re upset or love it. It\u2019s all about evoking an emotion for me.<\/p>\nThe dress feels like protest couture. Do you consider yourself a political designer?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong>Definitely not, but a big part of Briah Artemis is humor. I never want to take myself or my pieces too seriously.<\/p>\n<\/h3>\n <\/p>\n
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What was the fabric choice, and how did you make the lettering pop visually and emotionally?<\/strong><\/p>\nI work with bamboo jersey in almost all of my collections. I feel like it really complements the body very well and drapes like a hand knit would. For my Spring 2025 collection, I made a physical custom sash online saying “Miss Universe,” took a picture of it on the body so the shadows would be right, then finalized all the artwork on photoshop. When making the sashes custom, I just change out on photoshop, but still try to keep the same shadowing effect. <\/p>\n
How do you balance bold messaging with wearability in your designs?<\/strong><\/p>\nIt\u2019s rare that I put text on my pieces, so when I do, I make sure it\u2019s super intentional or at least funny.<\/p>\n
What designers or movements influence your work most?<\/strong><\/p>\nAlexander McQueen, ’90s Helmut Lang, Margiela and Comme [des Gar\u00e7ons].<\/p>\n
Did you expect the internet to react as wildly as it did? Any favorite tweets or memes?<\/strong><\/p>\nActually no, I didn\u2019t even know if she\u2019d get photographed in it. My favorite has definitely been Daily Mail<\/em> calling the sash controversial. I just think they\u2019re so funny. Who knew a white dress with a sash printed on it could be such a topic?<\/p>\n<\/h3>\n <\/p>\n
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Coachella is a runway in itself. What were your thoughts on the fashion overall this year?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong>In all honesty, I\u2019ve hardly kept up with it. All I\u2019ve paid attention to is Lady Gaga and Charli, and they both killed it.<\/p>\nWhat do you think it says about pop culture right now that a dress can say so much?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong>I think it\u2019s so funny. People take things so seriously, and it just makes me laugh that a dress is making headlines. I love when people are have opinions about my stuff, even when they\u2019re bad.<\/p>\nIf you could put one of your designs on any pop icon, living or dead, who would it be?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong>I mean, Charli. Lady Gaga, Madonna, Miley Cyrus and Daft Punk \u2014 I just love their music.<\/p>\nDo you feel the fashion industry gives enough credit to young, independent designers?<\/strong><\/p>\nDefinitely not. Most magazines are required to shoot brands that can afford to pay for ads, so it\u2019s really hard as a small brand to get featured in any magazine. I also think a lot of big brands steal smaller brands ideas and give no credit. Unfortunately, just how it goes.<\/p>\n
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What\u2019s next for you after this moment? More custom celeb work, a collection, something totally unexpected?<\/strong><\/p>\nI\u2019m currently working on my next Spring 2026 collection, which I\u2019m super excited for!.Also working on getting all my preorders together so I can see everyone wearing Briah Artemis this summer. In terms of celebrity work, I\u2019d love to work with more people. I just really need to align with them creatively to be inspired.<\/p>\n
Would you ever consider doing a fashion and music crossover event yourself?<\/strong><\/p>\nMusic is my second passion so it\u2019s my dream. For a musician to become my muse, to dress them for an award show, to create their tour outfits, etc. I just love the idea of another artist expressing themselves through my clothes.<\/p>\n
If your dress was a song, what would it sound like?<\/strong><\/p>\n“Mean girls featuring Julian Casablancas” on the Brat<\/em> remix album<\/p>\nFinally, should Charli have been the headliner?<\/strong><\/p>\nI mean, yeah.<\/p>\n
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Photography: Myles Hendrik<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"When Charli xcx strutted in a white dress with a sash that said \u201cMiss Should Be Headliner\u201d across her body, the internet lost its collective mind, and rightfully so. In<\/p>\n
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